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It has two peaks, or rather it is
composed of two mountains that are grouped together, the
more northern of which is the lower, and is called Little
Illiniza. The summits of both are sharp, and during the
time of our stay in Ecuador they were completely covered
by snow.
Edward Whimper, 1892.
Etymology:
From the Atacameño Tioniza which means 'Cerro
Hembra', or "Female Hill".
Illiniza Norte is located about 55 km
southwest of Quito. It normally is not covered in snow.
Its ascension is not difficult though it has some
dangerous places and knowledge of the mountains is
necessary. The many mouldering rocks, which often fall
and break apart, create the necessity for extreme care in
climbing.
Suggested itinerary:
| Day
1. |
Departure
from Quito in the morning. After passing by the
village of Machachi and a small community called
El Chaupi, we will reach a place known as
"La Virgen". After having lunch we will
hike up to the Nuevos Horizontes
Refuge (4,650 m - 15,257 ft) with
all our equipment in our backpacks. Dinner will
be served, and a brief explanation about what we
will do the next day will be given by our guides. |
| Day
2. |
After
an early breakfast we will leave the refuge.
Following the normal route, it will take us about
3 hours to reach the summit; beginning at the
edge of "La Ensillada" we will climb up
to a place called "Paso de la Muerte".
Crossing this pass very carefully, we will climb
directly to the summit. It will take us about
three hours to return to the Refuge. Late in the
evening we will be in Quito. |
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Climbing in Ecuador: Illiniza Norte 